Folia Bar & Kitchen

Folia is the signature dining room at Appellation Healdsburg, the resort Charlie Palmer built in the North Village at the north edge of town, with his son Reed leading the kitchen. Nearly everything passes over the live oak hearth: dry-aged duck, whole fish, vegetables from nearby farms, cooked with the patience open fire demands.

The room looks into the kitchen, and the kitchen looks back; cooking is treated here as something worth watching. Dinner is served Wednesday through Sunday, and the drive from Duchamp runs an easy four minutes.